L.A.B.A.S.

For the past few years six gentlemen with discerning palates have combed the restaurants and pubs of North East Essex in search of the perfect plate of Liver and Bacon. We each have our own view on what constitutes this classic dish. There are so many variables that we can never hope to agree. Should the liver be lamb, calf or ox – should the bacon be streaky, smoked or sweet cured and should the gravy be thick and rich with caramelised onions?

Our method of operation is to contact the chef at any of the numerous eating establishments in the area and to tell them that six gentlemen wish to dine on liver and bacon. The resulting dish is left to the magical skills of the master of the kitchen.

We have been surprised, enraptured and horrified by the resulting platters. One establishment served up at least eight variations of the meal as a hot buffet including curried liver with onion bhajis. An interesting diversion at a sea-side pub was a casserole that comprised of layers of liver, bacon and onions with English mustard to excite the taste buds.

Vegetable are not essential but appreciated to please the eye and to complement the main ingredient. Carrots are usually included. We have also had broccoli, swede, sprouts, cabbage and additional potatoes either boiled or roasted.

We have rarely been disappointed with our excursions and they have always stimulated lively conversation about the results. Terms like “squidgability” for the liver have been used and the glutinous nature of the gravy takes at least two pints of beer to analyse. The only thing that we do agree on is the mash. It must be a good red potato mashed to a creamy consistency with milk and butter. Just a dash of pepper and salt should be added while mashing.

My personal favourite method of cooking liver does not meet with much approval from my colleagues. It entails marinating pig’s liver in milk for an hour or two. It is then coated in flour seasoned with oregano. Flash frying it in hot oil produces a crisp outside coating while maintaining the softness of the inner meat with just a touch of blood still evident.

The most interesting outing for LABAS was a day trip to Barcelona. A cheap flight from Stansted at 6.00am got us into the centre of the city with enough time for a slow sightseeing stroll that ended up in the ancient narrow streets of the gothic quarter. One of our number knew the destination and had booked ahead. In a quiet square tucked away among the tall tenements we found the BAR LES TAPES. This is a small bar for locals run by a friendly Spaniard. How would he know about liver and bacon? His wife came from Birmingham. A few glasses of Spanish wine and beer washed down the tapas starters. Then came the main course - the finest liver and bacon south of the Pyrenees. A few more beers followed and we bid farewell to our hosts. By midnight we were back in England. By using a cheap Ryanair flight we were able to go door to door for about £60 each including the meal.

The gentlemen of LABAS at Bar Les Tapes in Barcelona.